On August 6, 2024, twenty climbers from around the world met in Paris to compete in the Olympics. These twenty women faced four difficult boulders: one powerful, one dynamic, one flexible, and one that required great patience. Only one climber was able to conquer them all (spoiler: Janja Garnbret [SLO]). Below are my rapid-fire reactions to this round (full standings here).
1. A Litmus Test for Strength
The crux of Boulder 1 was a precision left-hand move to a blocked-off crimp. The climbers who had strong enough right biceps could hold their body weight long enough to catch the crimp. Nine climbers failed the move (four climbers did not reach the crux). The only ones who managed it finished the day in the top seven. Below, watch Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) be the first to perform the move.
Yes, strength is not everything in climbing, but it’s definitely a benefit.
2. Oriane Bertone (FRA) Beta Break
Speaking of the Boulder 1 crux move, only Oriane thought to use her heel to balance the weight between her right bicep and left hamstring, allowing her to more “easily” reach the left hold. These mental insights are why I love climbing; it’s a combination of physical strength, mental acuity, and creativity.
3. A Litmus Test for Balance
In yoga, one of the many moves I struggle with is the so-called “Tree Pose,” where, standing on one leg, you bring your other leg and slowly turn it inwards to rest on the inner thigh of your standing leg.
On Boulder 4, the setters took the tree pose and exponentially increased its difficulty.
Climbers were forced to balance on their big toe, slowly bring their other leg through and past their standing leg, and gently place it on a coin-sized hold. Then, once perched, the climber had to dynamically swing their leg to another hold while maintaining balance.
Somehow, climbers, like Camilla Moroni (ITA) below, succeeded.
4. Janja Was Not Playing by the Setters' Games on Boulder 4
There’s (almost) always a way to break the beta.
5. Erin McNeice (GBR)… What?
6. Brooke Raboutou Combines Climbing with Boxing
First climbing and track, now climbing and boxing. Climbing just goes with everything!
7. Tight Race Heading into the Lead Section
Not including Janja’s 99+ points, eleven climbers are separated by approximately 40 points. The climbers are competing for eight
spots, which should make for a fascinating lead semi-final on August 8!
